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Clams give so much and ask so little. Just don’t overcook them. That’s about all you need to know to enjoy these bivalves at their plump and briny best.
At Henrietta Red in Nashville, chef Julia Sullivan has made shellfish a specialty. “Our clams are shipped in twice a week from a great producer out in Washington State,” she said. She does right by them with a fast steam over high heat, preserving the clams’ tenderness and…