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YOU MIGHT not think of gelato as a lower-fat option. But talk to New York City pastry chef Meredith Kurtzman, and you learn all sorts of things. Italian-style gelato, she explained, contains a fraction of the cream used in American-style ice cream and way more milk. “Fat coats your tongue and obfuscates flavor,” she said. For a pastry chef fixated on expressing the character of her ingredients, this is a pretty big deal.
Ms. Kurtzman started churning gelato at Esca, an Italian restaurant in Manhattan, and went on to gain…