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THE ITALIAN TOWN of Pietrasanta, wedged between the foothills of the Apuan Alps and the wide sandy beaches that front the Ligurian Sea, has all the features of an archetypal Tuscan village. There’s the imposing marble duomo, the cheerful cafe terraces spilling out onto the piazza and the narrow streets of Renaissance-era houses in sun-bleached tones of terra cotta and turmeric.
On weekends, Pietrasanta’s population swells with visitors perusing market stalls that peddle everything from small kitchen utensils to mammoth…