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WHAT DOES nostalgia taste like? For you, Great Aunt Mildred’s matzo ball soup may evoke her enveloping hugs, rose-scented perfume and uncanny mimicry skills, but take that soup to someone else’s Passover seder and it’s the disappointing substitute for the venerated bowlful from the local deli.
I bring up Passover because it’s next week, and I find it one of the more fraught examples of the challenge of reconciling heritage foods with contemporary tastes. As Joan Nathan notes in her new cookbook, “King Solomon’s Table: A…