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THE CONVERSATION turned to blanquette de veau almost immediately as Daniel Rose explained how he’d written the menu at Chez la Vieille, the legendary Paris bistro he reopened last October. “It reminds me of those soft flannel blankets you use to wrap up a newborn baby,” said the Chicago-born chef. “It’s just the most comforting, consoling, gentle, happy dish I know. So it was always going to be on my menu, and not just because it was a long-running favorite on the bistro’s original menu.”
The appeal of this stew of…