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PORTRAIT of a beer aficionado: Goblet in hand, softly illuminated by Edison bulbs, he twirls his waxed mustache and ponders which ultra-rare IPA he’ll try next. This is what craft beer looks like in the popular imagination—pretentious, persnickety—everything Joe Sixpack, tending his cooler of run-of-the-mill canned lager, is not.
But the old divisions are breaking down. Hipster bars serve Pabst Blue Ribbon, supermarkets fill…