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Designer Gabriela Hearst thinks a lot about how women feel when they dress—bloated or slim and how fabrics feel against their skin.
A recent collection spanned sleek, nipped-and-tucked overcoats, dresses and double-breasted suits as well as languid velvet trench coats, a flowy oversized wool car coat and a breezy silk twill shirtdress.
“Those are the water-retention looks,” Ms. Hearst said, with a laugh, while referring to…