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I WOKE UP hungry. Fortunately, I was in a town that can satiate a big appetite. My husband, Paul, and I had flown to Portland, Maine from New York late the previous night for a five-day road trip up the coast. We went to savor the state’s spring beauty, hike along some seaside trails, dip our toes in the still-icy Atlantic. But mostly we went to eat. I had lobster rolls—that quintessential summer food—on the brain and after a long, tediously frigid winter, I was only too ready to usher in the season. But the rolls would have to wait. That first morning we took a walk around downtown Portland and stumbled onto the…