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THINK OF tamarind as the love-child of lemon and caramel. The tart and sticky pulp comes from the pod of a tropical shade tree. Pressed into blocks of paste, it must be reconstituted with hot water and pressed through a sieve to remove any seeds and gnarly fibers. The alternative, a syrupy concentrate available in jars, also tends, confusingly, to be called paste.

Tamarind pairs beautifully with orange, garlic and ginger to make a fast and zingy marinade for chicken and pork. Its tartness renders drinks…