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MANY TRAVELERS pass through Nairobi, Kenya’s frenetic capital, en route to an East African safari, rarely staying longer than a night at an airport hotel. Yet this city of more than 3.5 million, which has ripened beyond its colonial roots into a multicultural capital and regional business hub, merits more attention. You’ll find a hopping (and often traffic-choked) downtown, an energetic art scene, lush parks and delicious Kenyan and Southeast Asian fare, not to mention some startling wildlife reserves within the city limits. It isn’t every day you can see a herd of giraffes grazing in sight of a high-rise. Here,…