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OF AMERICA’S 59 national parks, two of the most celebrated lie some 400 miles apart in western Montana—Glacier and Yellowstone. Even though I’ve lived in the region for four decades, I’d never taken the time to fully explore the in-between territory outside the parks. So one spring day, after the snow had mostly melted off, I set out from Yellowstone with my compass pointed north toward Glacier. If you don’t stop, weaving a path through the wild heart of the northern Rockies, the drive takes about seven hours, but I was in no…