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WHENEVER I EAT Mexican food, I crave ice cream for dessert. It’s cooling after all the fiery spice and also a creamy antidote to the bright acidity associated with this cuisine. But at the tail end of a recent meal at Fonda Frontera in Chicago, I discovered what’s become my favorite follow-up to most any sort of late-summer repast.

I actually had no intention of ordering dessert that day, but my 11-year-old son had other ideas. Soon our table was laid with an abundance of sweet, deep-fried churros, some dipped in…