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EARLY ONE RECENT Monday morning, Ruth Rogers, the 69-year-old chef and co-founder of London’s River Cafe, was debriefing her team after an especially busy Sunday lunch. Two hundred and fifty patrons had gathered in the restaurant’s airy, modern dining room and on its adjacent patio to eat from her daily menu: several varieties of hand-rolled pastas, grilled squid with lemon and chopped red chilies, turbot on the bone roasted with oregano and capers. Many of these guests—primarily regulars and return customers—wanted the Chocolate Nemesis, the restaurant’s marvel of a cake. But there’d been an issue with the pastry…