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THE CONDIMENT Hot to Trot
At its most basic, hot sauce makes food spicy. But at the height of its powers, this sort of seasoning can bring dishes to life and reveal new dimensions of flavor. Our favorite proof: Horseshoe Brand hot sauce, made in Rhinebeck, N.Y., by hobbyist-cook deputy sheriff turned hot-sauce entrepreneur Ken Millett. The unexpected “it” factor in Horseshoe’s most revelatory flavors is fruit, often in surprising combinations. The mango-and-fatali-pepper sauce, vinegar-bright with a blooming heat, has a touch of tamarind tang to offset the mango’s richness. In the fiery habañero sauce, meanwhile, a…