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In 1982, when Rogério Fasano was 19, the first thing he did to revive his family’s 80-year-old hospitality business and start rebuilding its legacy was to buy back its name. As Rogério tells it, over grilled langoustines and fresh-made ravioli in Fasano Al Mare, the restaurant in his Rio de Janeiro hotel opposite Ipanema Beach, the word Fasano signified sophisticated dining in São Paulo during stretches of the early and mid-20th century. But by the time Rogério was 1, he says, “the name was gone.”

Now 55, Rogério has…