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It’s been a good year for Stephen Starr. “I feel liberated,” says the Philadelphia native, who in May claimed the 2017 James Beard Award for outstanding restaurateur, after five previous nominations in the category. “I didn’t want to stop until I won.” What’s more, his French restaurant Le Coucou, helmed by chef Daniel Rose in New York City, was named best new restaurant.

After a brief stint as a DJ in the ’70s, Starr launched the Philadelphia cabaret Stars, where Pat Benatar and Jerry Seinfeld both performed. He later…