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For all the years I’ve spent consuming pizza and wine, I’ve rarely pondered what combination works best. A pizza wine was whatever bottle I happened to have on hand. And yet with so many serious pizza joints popping up around the country in recent years, I wondered if pizza and wine pairing warranted a second look.

Of course “pizza” can mean many things: white or red, Sicilian- or Chicago-style, not to mention all the possible toppings. How could the same wine that goes with a mushroom pizza pair with, say, a clam pie?…