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Fall is not the time to be stingy with the butter. At the Lost Kitchen, Erin French’s restaurant tucked into a converted gristmill in central Maine, with cool weather comes hearty, indulgent cooking. This seared cod doused in a sauce of brown butter and capers fits the bill.

A salad of arugula, toasted bread and shaved fennel makes a crunchy, refreshing complement. “The bread soaks up the juices on the plate, and it makes everything better,” said Ms. French.