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ONE NIGHT, exhausted after a long shift at her previous restaurant, Erin French made the questionable choice of logging on to TripAdvisor to check her reviews. Sure enough, she found a blistering critique of a steak she’d served. But she did not become dejected. “I became obsessed,” she said. “I needed to know where I’d gone wrong. I researched and cooked steak after steak until I understood the rules.”
Six years later and at the helm of the Lost Kitchen in Freedom, Maine, Ms. French has mastered the steak. For her third…