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THE WORDS “wine country” usually evoke a verdant landscape of vineyards and rolling hills, not burned-out buildings and scorched earth. But that’s what parts of California look like right now. Napa and Sonoma have been under siege by fires these past two weeks. As winery owner Sam Coturri of Sonoma’s Winery Sixteen 600 put it, “Wine country is being attacked by a faceless, malicious enemy.”

With multiple fires all over both counties and in neighboring Mendocino and Solano as well, it’s impossible to predict the ultimate impact…