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WRITE ABOUT FOOD for long enough, and eventually you’ll find yourself presiding in your pajamas over a pit 3 feet deep, shoveling hot coals over a 16-pound turkey. Such is the power of Thanksgiving.
Indeed, for a holiday dedicated to All-American traditions, our national feast has a funny way of making ambitious cooks itchy to experiment. A plain, honest bird at the center of the holiday table—no elaborate trussing, no scientifically calibrated brine, no exotic stuffing? That sufficed for a few centuries, but nowadays, sure…