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Where You’ve Seen Them: Designer
Raf Simons
helped spur interest in ankle boots when he featured a Western-styled version in his debut runway show for Calvin Klein last February.
Timothée Chalamet,
nominated for a best actor Academy Award in “Call Me By Your Name” and singer Harry Styles are among stars recently sporting ankle boots.
called
Chelsea
boots its No. 1 men’s shoe trend for fall 2017.
What’s Their Story: In the late 1830s, English shoemaker
Joseph Sparkes Hall
made the first patented slip-on ankle boot with elastic gussets on the sides, according to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and presented the boots to Queen Victoria. In the 1960s, a variation now known as Chelsea boots took off with scenesters who hung around the famed King’s Road in London’s Chelsea—an epicenter of mod fashion—and artists including the Beatles and the Rolling Stones helped make them cool.
Why Your Concern Is Justified: The average guy may find these boots hard to pull off. Remember the ribbing then-presidential contender Marco Rubio got for wearing a pair in 2016? Some fear the look will read “trying too hard.” Done right, you’re a modern Beatle. Not, and you veer into retro
Tom Jones
or, gasp, Austin Powers territory. If you’re going to try ankle boots, you’d better make plans to visit a tailor. Getting the pant length right is crucial to getting ankle boots to look good, especially when it comes to dress pants. You also will need to stock up on over-the-calf socks.
Why They’re Worth Trying: When you need footwear that has the sleekness of a dress shoe but stands up to winter weather, ankle boots deliver. The alternative, rugged snow boots, are more appropriate for climbing a mountain than the corporate ladder. Plus, “wearing dress shoes day in and day out can get boring,” says Julie Rath, founder and CEO of men’s style consulting firm Rath & Co.
So, How Do I Wear Them?: For ankle-boot beginners, look for a smooth leather or suede in a crisp style without elaborate detailing, says
Ms. Rath.
(If suede feels too casual to wear with a suit, just stick with leather.) Go with a low heel and a standard toe rather than more edgy styles. Ankle boots with rubber or cleat soles are best suited for casual outfits.
Pay attention to pant length and width to avoid pants getting caught in the boot. The trick “is to go quite a bit shorter on the pant leg than you normally would so you can see that it’s a boot and not just a laceless shoe,” says Hollywood fashion stylist
Ilaria Urbinati,
who has recently put clients
Tom Hiddleston
and
Joel Edgerton
in suits with ankle boots by Christian Louboutin.
One trick to avoid getting pants stuck in a boot, Ms. Rath says: “Have your pants cut about a half inch longer in back than front.” Sid
Mashburn,
founder of the Atlanta-based men’s retailer of the same name, advises being mindful and adjusting pants legs when necessary. “It just happens,” he says.
Write to Ray A. Smith at ray.smith@wsj.com
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