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A new golden age is upon us—though maybe “turmeric age” would be a better name. Good-for-you food has never been this good. Fat is no longer ingredient non grata. Vegetable dishes are often the most exciting items on the menu. American chefs draw on a global pantry for nutritional powerhouses such as kimchi and chia seeds. If there was once a wall between health food and serious cooking, it’s been kicked in.
The new brand of healthy eating that’s displaced the old flavorless, fat-phobic fare can be traced, at least in…