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IF YOU CALLED Marfa “Nowheresville,” you’d be right, to a degree. The town of fewer than 2,000 people in far west Texas has one stoplight, erratic cell service, and shop and restaurant hours that are even spottier. But for every sense in which Marfa falls short, it triumphs in another: cinematic landscapes that stretch unbroken to the horizon; cowboys presiding over art galleries; and sunsets that, at the smog-free altitude of nearly 5,000 feet, were the prettiest I’d ever seen.
People who know Marfa know it as an art…