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HOW WOULD YOU LIKE to write about vegan desserts for Thanksgiving?” my editor asked. And here I thought she liked me. Imagine, requesting this of someone who loves butter as I do—rubbing cold cubes of it into flour with my fingers, tasting its sweetness in the yeasty apses of a croissant.
I accepted the assignment knowing full well how high the stakes are. “This is good…for a vegan pie” will not fly on this holiday. I decided I would bake for everyone, not just for vegans. No guest would go away unthankful or less than thoroughly…