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THE RABBIT with anchovies, rosemary and cream would not do. That recipe is intended for wild rabbit, not the farmed variety most common in the U.S. And would the apricots for apricot Eton mess really be in season in enough parts of the country at the time of publication? Local ones are mandatory.

I received all this in an email exchange with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s assistant, in the course of deciding on a Sunday lunch menu that could reasonably be replicated by American readers. Under other circumstances, I might…