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The last in a three-part series on wine culture in the Midwest today.

I LEARNED A NEW acronym when I was in Kansas City, Mo., a few weeks ago for the Jefferson Cup Invitational Wine Competition: DNPIM, or Do Not Put in Mouth, a term judges use to describe particularly unpleasant wines. “We used to get wines like that all the time,” said Patricia Wamhoff, a Missouri-based wine wholesaler and Jefferson Cup judge. “But it’s much rarer now.”