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RECENTLY, FOLLOWING the lead of millions of other harried cooks, I introduced an Instant Pot to my kitchen. Perhaps you’ve heard of the gizmo? It’s the highest-profile brand of the increasingly pervasive countertop “multicooker”—combination Crock Pot, pressure cooker, rice maker, electric skillet and yogurt maker.

This $99 appliance from the tiny Ontario-based company Double Insight has, in the seven years since its debut, progressed from a niche product modestly popular with Paleo dieters to a viral marketing…