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TRACK STAR Cross-country skiing is a serene escape from urban commotion, and one hell of a workout.

TRACK STAR Cross-country skiing is a serene escape from urban commotion, and one hell of a workout.


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I had been ditched in Montana’s far northwestern woods—my friends already far ahead, my only remaining company a set of uncooperative, decades-old cross-country skis and poles found in the corner of their garage.

As a dedicated alpine skier, I was unfamiliar with the free heels, slippery edges and super-skinny planks beneath me, and my ego suffered frequent, comically low-speed topples into the snow. I followed my friends’ tracks, in dire need of technical advice and gaining surprisingly high speeds on even the gentlest descents. But even as a beginner alone in the woods, I was having a ball.

Sometimes frustrating and, as I found, often exhausting, cross-country skiing is one of the best methods of exercise. Since most trails on public lands are free—and groomed trails on private lands carry very low fees—it’s also relatively inexpensive for entry-level skiers who want to escape into winter sanctuaries.

“It’s an opportunity to detox from modernity,” said Charity Baxter, director of recreation at Devil’s Thumb Ranch, a nordic ski center in Colorado. The decidedly old-fangled sport is rooted in history. Skis were for thousands of years survival tools in snowbound regions like Mongolia and Scandinavia. Norse mythology celebrates Ullr and Skadi, god and goddess of skiing and bow-hunting, offering insights into the origins of the seemingly bizarre Olympic biathlon, which combines cross-country skiing and target shooting.

The timeless, uncomplicated function of the gear—you only need skis, poles, and boots—makes big showy developments infrequent. “Cross-country skiers don’t really like change,” said William McSherry, vice president of Alpina Sports. But recently, innovations pulled from other ski disciplines have crept in, making the learning curve smoother than it seemed during my first adventure.

The most notable advancement is the proliferation of “skins skis,” which help skiers alternately grip the snow and glide over it in most conditions. These patches of treated synthetic mohair skin affixed to the underside of skis eliminate the need to apply elaborate combinations of friction and glide waxes skis once needed to function, a complicated chore for beginners. Fish-scale-patterned ski bases have in the past offered a wax-free option but can be frustratingly slippery on icy snow.

Skin skis are enjoying skyrocketing popularity. Now this technology, developed for the ease of recreational skiers, has proved so helpful it’s even trickling upwards to high-performance race skis.

For those nervous about the too-slender girth of old-fashioned skis, slightly fatter, backcountry skis—such as Madschus’s 55 MGV+ and Rossignol’s BC 65 Positrack models—are also enticing beginners. (The numbers refer to skis’ width in millimeters). These wider platforms are designed to improve stability and versatility, and a partial- or full-metal edge gives you better control as you turn. They’re built for both invitingly manageable groomed courses and the wild card of off-trail adventures.

Upgraded boots, otherwise soft and comfortable, now offer features like hard heels and cuffs to help you master balance. Modern, lightweight synthetic materials make the boots more breathable and better-insulated. For brave but shivery sorts, there’s even a heated boot from Alpina out this year for backcountry, off-trail use.

Despite my lack of coordination and my antiquated gear, I stayed mostly upright that first time out, following the trail my companions had blazed to a remote cabin, a crackling fire, refreshing craft beers and gooey nachos. I flopped happily in a chair with a post-exercise, “hey, I dodged trees” buzz and gazed out the window at the (surely enchanted) snowy woods. Count this alpine skier a cross-country convert, with plans for another outing soon—albeit one with more modern gear.

BACKWOODS STARTER KIT // Everything You Need to Glide the Trails

Cross-Country Skiing Just Got Easier—Thanks to a Gear Upgrade


1. Fischer Twin Skin X-Lite

A proper set of skis can do a lot to help you transition from clueless beginner to coordinated ace. This pair from Fischer features two parallel, 12-inch strips of mohair skin under each foot to help with grip and glide, and a hydrophobic coating that resists ice and mud. Lighter than previous versions, the Twin Skin X-Lite uses construction borrowed from skis on the feet of elite World Cup racers. $290, fischersports.com

2. Alpina T30 Boots

Newbies often struggle to keep their skis flat on the snow, but tilted bases reduce efficiency and glide. The hard exoskeleton in this boot’s heel pocket helps combat those torsional wobbles, and its sturdy ankle cuff helps you maintain control on ungroomed terrain. The rest of the boot is soft and comfortable—like a light hiker—with grippy soles for easy walking and a neoprene lace cover to keep them tied up tight. $150, alpinasports.com

3. Swix CT2 Carbon TBS Poles

While downhill skiers get an assist from gravity, propelling yourself on cross country skis relies heavily on upper-body exertion. That’s what makes the sport great exercise, and also why the sticks in your hands matter as much as the planks on your feet. These carbon poles give beginners plenty of power and stability without breaking the bank. And because they’re so stiff and won’t flex, you don’t waste energy as you push yourself along. $250, swixsport.com

4. Salomon Prolink Access CL Bindings

For years, weekend warriors had to buy bindings that matched the sole of their cross-country ski boots. Now Salomon’s innovative Prolink Access CL fits both of the sport’s standard boot styles, so skiers have the freedom to change or upgrade the look and feel of what’s on their feet without having to pony up for new bindings as well. $60, salomon.com

5. Swix Gunde Hat

This cheery retro pompom hat named for four-time Olympic cross-country gold medalist Gunde Svan is a classic Nordic topper. Made of acrylic and wool, it keeps your head warm all winter—whether or not you’re skiing—but still breathes well when you’re out working up a sweat on the trails. Pair it with some sporty sunglasses (preferably ones that won’t fog up) for added protection from sun, wind and snow. $31, swixsport.com