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AS OUR OBSESSION with celebrity chefs shows no sign of abating, sommeliers have stepped into the limelight, too. There are “superstar sommeliers” and “sommeliers to watch” and even “sommeliers to follow on Instagram” (who post pictures of wines far better than anything I ever drink). There are even sommeliers who have nothing to do with wine at all but service mustard, water and even hot sauce. In other words, sommelier is a trending profession.

There’s the requisite popular movie, “Somm,” a documentary focusing on four…