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THE WRITING had been on the wall for months regarding Perla, the grandest of Gabriel Stulman’s five New York restaurants. It was a place where you could sink into a red leather banquet and feast on bible-thick pork chops and handmade beef-cheek agnolotti—if you were lucky enough to get a table. When Perla opened, in 2012, it was spoken of as a new classic, but by 2015 business had begun to cool. A move to a prime corner in the West Village the following year bumped trade up at first, but soon enough Perla was losing money. Traffic was down, and the costs of running the place—with its reliance on an army of cooks to execute…