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Michael Abramson has set up his butcher shop in Toronto’s Little Italy to look much like any other, with gleaming knives lining the wall, employees prepping cutlets and someone hand-cranking a sausage stuffer.

There’s one meaty exception. His choice cut isn’t beef, it’s beet. He’s not proffering lamb, but yam.

Mr. Abramson, a 62-year-old vegan, is the proprietor of YamChops, a faux meat market where every patty, link, and…