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Danny Meyer, 59, who recently won the Julia Child Award, is the founder and CEO of Union Square Hospitality Group, which operates 14 restaurants, including New York’s Union Square Cafe and Gramercy Tavern. He is the author of “Setting the Table” (Harper Perennial). He spoke with Marc Myers.

In the late 1960s, when I was 9, my father sat the family down in our den to tell us that the travel agency he had started was filing for…