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SAUVIGNON BLANC is a wine-world conundrum: highly distinctive but sometimes unremarkable; wildly popular yet not always prized; grown everywhere, but even its fans know only two types: New Zealand and Sancerre.
Perhaps that’s why so many wine professionals invoke these two places when selling Sauvignon Blancs produced just about anywhere else. When I bought a couple of bottles from Italy’s Friuli region at a Manhattan wine store recently, the salesman described one as “New Zealand-like” and the other as “like Sancerre.”…