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THE MENU remains TBD at A Rake’s Progress, Spike Gjerde’s highly anticipated Washington, D.C., restaurant, set to open this summer. “We believe there are 52 seasons in a year,” said the chef, looking forward to the ebb and flow of ingredients harvested in his region. “So the menu will change week to week.”
Were the restaurant opening today, Mr. Gjerde might serve this seared trout on a ragout of English peas and leeks. “It’s perfect for right now,” he said. Like the peas and leeks, new potatoes are at their peak at this…