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Steak bears the same relationship to other types of food that the lion bears to the jungle, or Louix XIV bore to the French: It is indisputably king. But the question of where to find the best steak—the king of kings—kindles considerable debate. Within the U.S., both Chicago and Texas make strong claims. Internationally, Argentina is one of America’s fiercest competitors. So, braving gout and inadvisable cholesterol levels, I headed down to the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires to judge for myself.
To a meat-loving outsider,…