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I caught the ski bug at 43, after a false start. Having been deposited atop a mogulled run by a boyfriend in my 20s (he sped down leaving me to descend by rump), I was in no rush to strap on skis again. Some two decades later, a girlfriend invited me to Utah’s Park City Mountain Resort. Instead of foolishly braving too-difficult terrain, we took lessons with an affable instructor, gleefully shrieked through extra-wide turns and felt supremely accomplished as our face plants became less frequent. The après-ski bubbly soothed our singed muscles, the 5 p.m. massage even more so. Since then, I’ve become what is delicately known as a powder pig. I count the days until ski season opens. Though the physical challenge is part of the attraction, truth be told it’s the mental liberation—being forced to live in the moment—that hooked me. My drive isn’t to be an expert. I simply want to hone my mediocre skiing abilities and bask in the charms of a glamorous resort, content that I’ve earned every bit of pampering.
Here, we’ve rounded up eight resorts for enthusiastic but not-great skiers. All offer good ski schools or excellent private instruction (I’ve learned that proper lessons are crucial) and varied terrain so a more advanced travel companion won’t have to suffer through the bunny slopes.
Aspen, Colo.
Aspen may be a glitzy alpine playground, but its Buttermilk Mountain is as nonthreatening as it sounds, full of gentle terrain. Once you progress, head over to Snowmass where 48% of the runs are intermediate. Even the black diamond-filled mountains of Aspen and Highlands offer manageable intermediate options.
STAY Along with elegant, refurbished rooms the Little Nell—Aspen’s only ski in/ski out property—offers can-do service (in-room boot fitting, for starters) and concierges will wrangle lift tickets, book ski school and ferry gear to and from the slope. From $1,100 a night, thelittlenell.com
APRÉS Partake in a boozy fondue lunch at Cloud Nine, perched at 11,000 feet. aspensnowmass.com
SPA At the St. Regis hotel’s Remede Spa, cushy lounge beds come with oxygen machines (to combat altitude sickness) and the “healing” massages rely on hemp-based oils. stregis.com
DINE The Little Nell’s Element 47 is known for its innovative fare, and spirited ambience. 675 Durant Ave., thelittlenell.com
St. Moritz, Switzerland
For anyone too intimidated to venture into the same turf that hosted five Alpine Ski World Championships and two Winter Olympic Games, take heart: St. Moritz also has an abundance of nonexpert terrain. But the hand-holding tactics of American resorts are noticeably absent. There’s little signage and few English speaking “ambassadors” to help you navigate the resort. Private instruction helps smooth the way.
STAY Kulm Hotel offers airy chalet-style rooms, lake views, a huge spa and six restaurants, from swanky pizza to (very) formal. From about $350 a night, kulm.com
APRÉS Join the international jet set for raclette and Cristal at El Paradiso. el-paradiso.ch
DINE Fuel up on grilled specialty meats at Hatecke, a tiny restaurant/gourmet butcher shop in town. hatecke.ch
Revelstoke Mountain, B.C.
Known for heli-skiing and the longest vertical (5,620 feet) on the continent, Revelstoke (pictured at top) may not be top-of-mind for more timid skiers. But along with legendary powder (approximately 40 feet a year) and affordable rates, this 3,100-acre resort in the Selkirk mountain range offers 7% beginner and 45% intermediate terrain, all accessible by one gondola, two lifts and two magic carpets. In recent years, as heli-skiing’s popularity has grown, the town itself has become a Canadian Jackson Hole with charming shops and eateries.
STAY Ski in/ski out fans have one option: Sutton Place Hotel, an upscale condo property with an outdoor pool and hot tub. From about $380 a night, suttonplace.com. In town, the new nine-room Explorers Society Hotel delivers a stylish boutique experience along with a top restaurant and craft cocktail bar. From about $225 a night, explorers-society.com
APRÉS Commune with townies at the Village Idiot, where bar stools are fashioned from skis. 306 Mackenzie Ave., www.thevillageidiot.ca
DINE Quartermaster Eatery, at the Explorers Society hotel, serves elevated comfort food like tomahawk steak with smashed potatoes, heaping sandwiches and house-made bacon with balsamic maple glaze. 109 1st St West, explorers-society.com
Big Sky, Mont.
Unlike in the Colorado Rockies—where much of the snow that’s accumulated so far this season is man-made—Montana is seeing some of its best conditions in a decade. Fewer flights also mean fewer crowds. And while Big Sky is revered for steep chutes and terrifying couloirs, of the resort’s 5,800 acres, 40% is made for newbies and intermediate skiers. Off the slopes, you’ll find an inviting cowboy version of hygge: rustic-chic cabins and restaurants adorned with hard-won taxidermy.
STAY The 24 just-upgraded log cabins of Lone Mountain Ranch sit on a century-old homestead surrounded by Nordic ski trails and pristine wilderness. From about $249 a night, lonemountainranch.com
APRÉS Slope-facing Montana Jack stocks 30 beers on tap, many local. bigskyresort.com
DINE Amid roaring fireplaces and sweeping alpine views, Everett 8800 serves up hearty fare like rack of lamb with porcini flan. bigskyresort.com
Sun Valley, Idaho
Even with the trappings of a top ski retreat, Sun Valley retains its low-key, Wild West soul (read: no designer boutiques or ski in/ski out hotels). Some 2,000 skiable acres are spread across two mountains: Dollar for beginners and intermediates and Bald for more advanced skiers. The vibrant town of Ketchum is a huge draw, as is the new 20,000-square-foot spa at Sun Valley.
STAY Sun Valley Lodge (a former Ernest Hemingway haunt) is the most luxurious option. From about $270 a night, sunvalley.com
APRÉS On Bald Mountain, head to Apple’s Bar and Grill, a locals’ pub tricked out with Olympics memorabilia. 205 Picabo St.
DINE At the historic Roundhouse, your pancetta-wrapped pheasant will be roasted in the original 1939 wood-burning oven. Hemingway favored Trail Creek Cabin for alpine fare like buffalo tenderloin. sunvalley.com
Park City, Utah
A visit to Park City means epic skiing, and, when you’ve called it a day, easy access to historic Main Street. A full half of this massive resort’s 7,300 acres is beginner and intermediate terrain. To master the mountain, or at least come closer, sign up for one of the small group classes like Peak to Peak or Women’s Ultimate Four.
STAY Grand Summit Hotel is not the ritziest spot, but proximity to the slopes heightens its appeal. Guest rooms, mostly suites, are bright and modern. From $322 a night, grandsummitlodgeparkcity.com
APRÉS Ski to High West Distillery for cocktails like Dead Man’s Boots, a mighty infusion of rye, tequila and ginger beer highwestdistillery.com . For glamour, head to the Montage Deer Valley’s Gorsuch-designed yurt for champagne, truffle popcorn and a fireside seating. montagehotels.com
SPA Massages at the Montage kick off with a eucalyptus steam, redwood sauna and Vichy showers. montagehotels.com
DINE Reward your burning quads with veggie-forward fare at Handle. 136 Heber Ave., handleparkcity.com . Or, for fancified pub grub, make your way to Fletchers. 562 Main St.
Telluride, Colo.
A two-hour commute from the airport is a buzz kill. But you’ll be rewarded with very few lift lines, wide, long runs and an Old West-meets-bohemian vibe. Of Telluride’s 127 trails, 23% are beginner (including a large teaching facility) and 36% are intermediate.
STAY A sophisticated ski in/ski out property, Madeline Hotel and Residences comes with a ski valet, fire pits on the wraparound Sky Terrace, hot tubs and a heated pool. It’s a quick gondola ride down to the town of Telluride. From $370 a night, madeline.aubergeresorts.com
APRÉS Buzzy mountain perches Bon Vivant (try the Bloody Mary with duck bacon and pickled vegetables) and Alpino Vino capture Telluride’s spirit. tellurideskiresort.com
SPA The Madeline’s M spa offers massages along with therapeutic soaks. madeline.aubergeresorts.com
DINE Take in the alpenglow at 10,551 feet while enjoying Colorado classics at Allred’s. tellurideskiresort.com . In town, try the bistro-style menus at La Marmotte. lamarmotte.com
Beaver Creek, Colo.
Newbie skiers easily find their footing at Beaver Creek, where hot cocoa is served at the chair lifts, escalators throughout the village make it easier to get around in ski boots and the White Carpet Club ski valet will book lessons and score lift tickets. There’s also a 200-acre learning area at 11,400 feet, and 42% of the resort is classified as intermediate terrain. For custom coaching, book Max Day Four, a small group lesson.
STAY The Osprey, a sleek 45-room property just 26 steps from the chairlift, offers a tapas restaurant, hot tub and pool.From about $350 a night, ospreyatbeavercreek.rockresorts.com
APRÉS Head to the fire pits at the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek for a glass of wine or s’mores or both. beavercreek.park.hyatt.com
SPA Treatments at the Park Hyatt’s Allegria Spa come with a soak in the Aqua Sanitas, a “water sanctuary” inspired by Roman baths. beavercreek.park.hyatt.com
DINE Grouse Mountain Grill offers classics with rustic-elegant ambiance. 141 Scott Hill Rd., beavercreek.com . For more of an adventure, take a snow cat or open-air sleigh to Beano’s Cabin for a Western -style dining experience. 15 W Thomas Pl., beavercreek.com
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