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IN MAY OF 2013, on a silent-era soundstage in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, the choreographer Ryan Heffington mounted a hybrid dance party, fashion show, drag performance and art exhibit. Called KTCHN, it was inspired by the paintings of Nolan Hendrickson, a New York–based artist whose work he had discovered online. “I felt like he was depicting my life,” Heffington recalls, “all these middle-aged, hairy men lounging around in jockstraps and high heels.”

The show played four sold-out weekends, and one fateful evening toward…