The Dark Jeans Backlash: What Stylish Guys Are Wearing Instead

Today, the rigidity of men’s denim rules has softened (along with your A.P.C. jeans). While we haven’t exactly entered total denim anarchy, in terms of fit, wash and amount of stretch, there is now more leeway—in every sense of the word. “The raw rigid thing has plateaued a bit,” said

Jonathan Cheung,

head of design at Levi’s Strauss. “And the lighter stone-wash look has come back strong.” He chalks up this shift to the trend for “normcore,” hipsters’ fondness for regular-guy wear that’s pointedly less stylish. Chris Gibbs, owner of the popular Los Angeles men’s clothing shop Union, credits streetwear for the new currency of looser, paler jeans.

However it happened, lighter washes, relaxed fits and even some stretch are trickling down to the rest of humanity. In case you’re a bit flustered by the new selection, here are some things to consider.

Feel Free to Relax

Find the sweet spot between Slimsville and Baggytown. Scott Morrison, founder of New York-based denim brand 3×1, likes a “classic 501” fit, “where it’s fuller, a bit looser, and has a straight leg.” The A.P.C. style shown here fits the bill—and underlines the rejection of uptightness with a faded wash. Style looser jeans carefully so you don’t look sloppy. “I think a cool, easy way to do a looser fit is to crop the jeans a little bit,” said Mr. Cheung.

Embrace Elasticity

For years, men left stretch denim to their girlfriends, concerned about those telltale shapely calves. “Once upon a time, you could spot stretch jeans from 6 feet away,” said Mr. Cheung. But now, thanks to higher-quality fibers and better yarn-spinning techniques, the effect and fit are much more subtle. Dark iterations are ideal for guys who want the comfort of stretch but still prefer the classic raw-denim look.

Let There Be Light

Thanks to its crispness, dark denim is still the jean of choice for the office or a night out. But that doesn’t mean jeans like those at left can’t look presentable, even professional. “If you wear lighter jeans with an Oxford shirt or a sweater and button-down, that’s a more sophisticated look that can probably work,” said Mr. Morrison of 3×1. You can further chic-ify light washes by pairing them with a blazer or (yes) brogues.

Less Distress Is More

When it comes to faux wear-and-tear, the desired look is “lived-in,” not “mauled by rabid raccoons.” Fading should appear plausible—see the slightly stonewashed Levi’s 501s shown here. “Everyone’s weary of heavy whiskering,” said Erik Allen, co-founder of L.A. brand Buck Mason. And restrict yourself to just a bit of scuffing at the seams and hem, no rips or tears. “Unless you’re performing at Coachella,” said Mr. Cheung.