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SOME MOVEMENTS begin with small, disparate acts. The American artisan-cheese revolution started some 40 years ago with a handful of women scattered across the U.S., making goat cheese in their kitchens and small creameries.
Some were back-to-the-landers, or interested in the “eat local” movement. Some sought an alternative for their children who couldn’t tolerate cows’ milk. Others simply thought goats adorable, or had experience…