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The tall, blonde sunflower may be a timeless symbol of summer, but its seeds have long seemed stuck in the Summer of Love. Lately, though, chefs have been taking another look at this versatile ingredient and finding uses for it year-round.

Sunflower seeds have swung in and out of fashion for millennia. Native Americans ate them out of hand and ground them for flour and oil. Settlers exported them to Europe, where they were adopted with particular enthusiasm in Russia; by the late 19th century, sunflower seeds were advertised…