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THE DOURO VALLEY in Portugal is home to one of the most famous wines in the world: Port. And while this great fortified wine has put the region on the map, its vintners also turn out first-rate dry reds and whites—to the seeming indifference of the wine-drinking world.

At least that was my impression when I returned to New York after spending time in the Douro last month. I had tasted some very good wines during my trip and was looking forward to drinking them at home. Yet in every wine shop I visited, even in the…