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YOU CAN’T BEAT a great tomato toast, especially at this time of year, with so many heirloom varieties available. “Each tastes a little different,” said chef Steven Satterfield. “They tend to have a lot more juice than other tomatoes, and that fruity-meaty flavor that’s part vegetable, part fruit, part unknown umami.”

Mr. Satterfield knows when to leave well enough alone, and high tomato season is that time. In his second Slow Food Fast recipe, Mr. Satterfield simply throws ripe, luscious tomatoes into relief with a…