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IT WAS ONLY a matter of time before the Modernist Cuisine Cooking Lab in Bellevue, Wash.—command central for culinary geeks—trained its laser focus on bread-making. And when the founder, ex-Microsoft CTO Nathan Myhrvold, sought a partner for this project and a new head for his test kitchen, he turned to Francisco Migoya. The Mexican-born former executive pastry chef of Napa Valley’s celebrated French Laundry was at the time a professor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. “They were looking for a candidate who had three-Michelin-star experience, had written books and had an education background,” said…