What's Coming In Menswear This Fall

Few shows in London, Milan or Paris delivered the drama of the Céline announcement, but that’s a good thing. Many designers focused on refinement, from Berluti’s just-so butterscotch leather coats to Giorgio Armani’s well-cut double-breasted suits. Function, too, was a concern. For his final collection at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones sent out safari jackets teeming with stash pockets. Lanvin’s plastic-coated plaid macs were truly stormworthy. At Undercover’s show in Florence, primary-colored down jackets promised legitimate coziness, while Junya Watanabe shrewdly co-opted the reflective patches found on construction workers’ uniforms for parkas that shone like a beacon through a month of fashionable clutter.

The Non-Suit Suit

Meet the boardroom suit’s informal younger brother. A boxy jacket with relaxed pants make the clean coordination of a head-to-toe look seem nonchalant. From left: Ermenegildo Zegna’s neat duo with a notch-lapeled jacket; Neil Barrett’s micro-checked zip-up; playful emblems at Marni; Sunnei’s cornflower blue workwear riff; Lemaire’s swirl-patterned set.

Rebel Yellow

The mood was rather sunny at shows throughout the month, with many designers choosing citrusy shades. From left: Maison Margiela’s head-to-toe embrace; Valentino’s shining sweater; Kenzo’s Ivy League duffle coat; Dior Homme’s lemon lining peeking out like a cocktail garnish.

Bright Future

Grey drizzly days will feel less monochromatic next winter with puffer colors that make black seem blandly basic. From left: Prada’s icy blue coach’s jacket; Undercover’s tomato-red pullover; Études’s shiny orange coat with matching scarf.

Eastern Parade

Silk fabrics and lush embroidery showed up as designers tapped Chinese craftsmanship for inspiration. From left: Marni’s cherry topper; Dries Van Noten’s stitch-rich bomber jacket; Kenzo’s shiny windbreaker with a sprig of a floral motif; Haider Ackermann’s band-collared shirt; Etro’s long and louche robe.

Button, Button, Who’s Got the Button?

Though more-casual versions of suits are trending, some designers still prioritized a buttoned-up suit-and-tie pairing. From left: Giorgio Armani’s double-breasted élan; Ralph Lauren’s matchy-matchy houndstooth; Hermès’s traditional dark suit and spotted tie; Versace’s navy suit with gold-buckle boots.

Is This Too Flashy?

There was plenty of outerwear with high-visibility reflective patches a la traffic cop. From left: Louis Vuitton’s jacket that shines in low light; Junya Watanabe’s neon-embellished get-up; Lanvin’s pocketed parka with silver-toned sleeves.

Moments We (Especially) Enjoyed

On their way to the Louis Vuitton show, David, Victoria and Brooklyn Beckham competed for the title of most fashionable family alive.

In Paris, Dries Van Noten ended his show by outfitting each model in a different, gallery-ready paint-printed parka.

With a new white beard, Karl Lagerfeld seems to be taking his grooming cues from David Letterman.

The models at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus all wore fabric dinosaur masks. Have we learned nothing from “Jurassic Park”?

The crowd at Vuitton’s show cheered boisterously when Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss flanked Kim Jones as he took his final bow.

Vetements, the Zurich-based label notorious for stirring things up, put on an unconventional show in a flea market north of Paris.

Uggs, often associated with celebrities’ supermarket runs, attained high-fashion status in Paris thanks to the brand’s collabs with labels Sacai and Y/Project.