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A lot can happen in six years. That’s how long it’s been since I wrote about the wines of Long Island’s North Fork, and just as harvest was beginning this fall I decided to have another look.

I found good wines and gifted winemakers. But I also learned that no new wineries had been established in the interim and several long-established ones are up for sale. The kind of growth I’d expected to find just wasn’t there.

Some…